"The Translucent Beauty of the ao dai," by Trong Nhan (in Saigon Daily News, June, 1968) The traditional Vietnamese woman's dress, the ao dai is considered by Westerners to be one of the most elegant and feminine national costumes in the world. Over the last thirty years, the ao dai has undergone many changes. French influence has contributed to its present uncluttered, flowing charm. Unlike the tight-fitting Chinese cheongsam, which tends to restrict movement, the Vietnamese ao dai, with its close-fitting bodice, free-flowing front and back panels, and long black or white silk trousers is a delicate and airy garment. Though these long, flowing panels are something of a hazard when riding a bicycle or sitting side-saddle on a motor scooter, Vietnamese women consider that the ao dai's advantages far outweigh its drawbacks - especially when it comes to hiding unshapely legs, thick ankles, or knobby knees.

Almost all over the world, people are familiar with the ao dai. Many Vietnamese girls who travel overseas to study wear their graceful dress. Wives of Vietnamese VIP's, such as Mrs. Nguyen Van Thieu and Mrs. Nguyen Cao Ky, always draw admiring glances on official visits. Though many European and American women have tried to wear the ao dai, it rarely does them justice. The frail pieces of streaming material seem unbecoming to them, because, in general, they are taller and larger boned than the tiny, slender Vietnamese women.

Fashions have changed too. Some thirty years ago, the dress, though still basically resembling today's fashion, was loose-fitting and reached only below the knees. The back fell straight from the neck, while the front formed two separate pieces that tied at the waist, the left tie always being larger than the right. This left a gaping V across the chest, which was covered by a piece of cloth tied behind the neck. Some fifteen years later, the dress received several improvements. The gaping V neck was reduced to a more demure size and, the two ends, instead of being tied together, were allowed to fall freely.

And so the revolution continued. The French eliminated the knots and belts, and the bodice changed to the traditional Chinese style. This tended to represent a fusion of Oriental and Western fashion. There was a stage when the shoulders were padded, but this soon passed. At least, as far as the collar is concerned, practicality has replaced fashion. For a time, women raised their mandarin collars from two centimeters to eight, but they found that it was difficult to eat. Also, their necks were held so stiffly that it was difficult even to talk. So, for the sake of comfort, collars were reduced to three centimeters. Today, however, necklines vary according to individual tastes; round, square, or heart-shaped. The collarless line is favored at the moment. The former First Lady of South Vietnam, Madame Ngo Dinh Nhu, set a trend in necklines. She wore a plunging rounded neckline which was widely imitated.

Cannot Eat My Fill

Some modern Vietnamese women find a happy medium between traditional Vietnamese dress and Western dress, though many prefer the ao dai. One student pointed out: "I don't have any prejudice against western skirts and dresses, but the ao dai pleases me." One female civil servant said: "I wear both Western and Vietnamese. The Vietnamese dress is best in cool weather, but when it is hot, Western dress is more comfortable. Whenever I am invited to dinner, I prefer to wear Western dress, so that I can eat my fill. If I eat too much, I find that the ao dai becomes too tight at the waist."

Young men believe the ao dai is old-fashioned and representative of the days when girls and boys were not allowed to associate. The older folks vary. Some say that Western dress is "not serious enough - European clothes look provocative." Others feel that young women should dress as they please. "We cannot force them to adopt our ideas. The character of girls shows in their behavior and upbringing, not in the way they dress."